Living In Provence: 3 Things You Should Know
You are in love with Provence and thinking about a major lifestyle change? As someone who was born and raised here but who also experienced life in quite the opposite setting - aka New York City - there are a few things I suggest to consider before moving to the South of France.
For a start, just remember that Provence is like any other place; there is a tourist version and a real life version of it. You have to be willing to fully embrace the latter in order to happily live in this wonderful region. Here are 3 major aspects of living in Provence to reflect on if you’d like to move here:
1. Winter in Provence
Most people visit Provence in the height of summer, explore its many festivals and drink rosé all day…which is exactly what should be done while on vacation! And to be fair, locals do live a pretty chill life during summer months too, but don’t forget that there is a winter season in Provence. I would say we’re in summer mode for about 4 to 5 months in terms of temperatures. Depending on the year, the warm weather can begin in May and last until mid-October, but summer hours and events usually roll out between June and September, with a peak in July and August. Things definitely aren’t “popping” as much outside of the June-September timeframe, which means less cultural events, restaurants and bars closing earlier and certain activities not open for the season. The way I see it, being here during the slower months means you get to enjoy the summer quality of life without the crowds, but depending on your lifestyle and personality, this can be a perk or a downside.
The period that I call “the dead of winter” - January through March - can be pretty brutal in the South of France if I’m being honest. Many businesses are closed post holiday season and the temperatures are down. Now don’t get me wrong, Provence winter is a piece of cake compared to places like New York, Montreal or Oslo, but the Mistral wind can be daunting. People who live in Provence tend to hibernate a bit during these colder months, so I’d say you have to be ok with being a home buddy for about 3 months a year to live here. The alternative? Planning ski trips where the fun is - which is actually very easy and affordable to do from the South of France - or chasing the sun in Morocco, Southern Spain, the Canary Islands and other close by destinations. In my opinion, Provence still has beautiful things to offer in the winter, but it’s best to know what to expect beyond the summer magic façade advertised on social media.
2. The right location in Provence
Provence is actually a very big region, so living here can mean different things depending on the area you pick. You could live in a global city like Marseille, a small yet animated town like l’Isle-Sur-Sorgue, or be lost in the middle of the countryside somewhere between olive tree fields and vineyards. When considering moving to Provence, I would spend time researching the region and figuring out the lifestyle that fits you. If you are a city person at heart and value a busy social life, I would chose a major city like Marseille or Nice, where there are things happening all year long. Chances are, those places will still feel like charming villages to you if you are coming from a major international city. If you’re moving here with children or simply want to experience the slow Provençal life, I suggest you find your little haven in the countryside or a tiny village. The Luberon area is perfect for that pace of life. After all, nature is one of the main reasons why people love Provence and a major part of what makes living here so peaceful, so why not fully live the countryside dream? If you need a break from your hectic life and want to focus on self-care, that’s the way to go! But even in busier cities, outdoor adventures are always easy and quick to plan whether it’s a beach day, a long hike, or a simple picnic with a view. Lastly, towns like Aix-en-Provence, Avignon, Arles or Nîmes are a good compromise to achieve a balanced lifestyle of clam and fun activities. The choice is yours, Provence is your oyster!
3. Making and spending money in Provence
Just like any major life decision, finances should not be overlooked! While it may be a total vibe killer to think of money as you are daydreaming about house hunting in Provence, you should know what to expect when it comes to the cost of living here and the job market. Everything is relative so it’s hard to say Provence is affordable without comparing it to other places. If you live in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, or even Paris, it will seem dirt cheap! Without generalizing, I would say Provence is somewhere in the middle when it comes to the cost of living; you can enjoy a very high quality of life without breaking the bank. However the cost of living also varies depending on where and when you are in Provence: the French Riviera in the summer months being the most expensive, major cities coming second, and small villages in the countryside the most affordable parts. One thing that you should be conscious of is that the job market here is not very dynamic. People don’t move to Provence for professional opportunities, quite the opposite! Young professionals usually choose to move to Paris or bigger economic hubs to boost their careers, which is what I did for about 15 years. However working remotely from Provence has also always been popular, mainly thanks to the TGV train allowing Parisians to split their time between the capital and the South of France with a commute under 3 hours, a trend that skyrocketed during Covid. Unless you are moving from a place where people have less spending power than in Provence, you are probably better of working from here while keeping your job remotely if possible. A New York salary in Provence will not only allow you to live comfortably, you would get a major lifestyle upgrade! A bigger home, a ton of disposable income, and still a lot of room for savings on top of that. The downsides? The time difference which means week nights may be work nights for you, and you won’t be immersed in French culture during your working hours, making it more challenging to learn the language if that’s your goal or simply meet people. Also keep in mind that buying property in France without a French job and contract can be very tricky as banks do not give loans to foreigners easily.
I hope that this will help you make what could possibly be THE most important decision of your life. If there is any other aspect of life in Provence you’d like me to touch on or if you need more details about something in particular, please leave a comment so we can keep the conversation going!
